Everyone's life would be greatly improved if we each had our own hibachi chef. He slices; he dices; he tells jokes! West 38th St. isn't a hot dining strip, but the chefs at Ginza make it worth a trip. Or two. Sushi gets equal billing to the stainless steel hibachi grilling, and a separate staff of chefs twists, turns, positions and plates 70 versions of le poison in the raw. All entrees are served with a pair of grilled shrimp, a grilled veggie medley, Japanese onion soup and a side salad. Pop some edamame while the chefs heat the grill and cool your mouth after the meal with green tea or red bean flavored ice cream.

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