During a recent episode of Fox TV's "Kitchen Nightmares," chef Gordon Ramsay lambasted the owner of a Los Angeles pizzeria for neglecting the eatery's ovens in favor of frozen dough, canned tomato sauce and a microwave.
In the not-so-distant past, that might have been about the best Eastsiders could hope for, as gourmet-pie purveyors passed over the area in favor of the more trendy Mass Ave., Broad Ripple and Far Northside. Fortunately, a quartet of entrepreneurs decided to invest in the restaurant-starved area, bringing Jockamo Upper Crust Pizza to the heart of Irvington shortly before Halloween.
That seasonal treat quickly turned into a neighborhood staple, packing in crowds clamoring for specialty pies and make-your-own creations. Sauces and crusts are house-made, and pies bake up in professional pizza ovens lining a wall of the open kitchen.
Weekends waits
The setting is simple: painted cement floors; wood tables, chairs and booths; and walls with wood paneling below and cheerful gold and rust paint shades above. The large plate-glass windows overlooking Washington Street sometimes show off artwork created by area kids. During our visit, a Christmas tree with sparkling lights was showcased instead.
A small bar makes room for about six along a back wall; seats go fast on weekends, when the place is inevitably on a wait.
My husband, Pete, and I ordered drinks and salads to start our meal.
With the exception of light versions, Jockamo's dressings (balsamic vinaigrette, honey mustard, creamy Gorgonzola, creamy garlic and a warm sweet-and-spicy style) are house-made "because we don't know how to make anything with less than the calories God intended," according to the menu.
I chose the Gorgonzola to accompany my small house salad ($2.95). The rich dressing paired perfectly with a plentiful amount of iceberg and romaine leaves topped with shredded carrots, black olives, diced bits of tomato and cucumber and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
Pete went with the Health Nut salad ($2.25), a tasty blend of broccoli, red onion, tomato, cukes and pine nuts in creamy garlic dressing. Although smaller than my house salad, it was a creative alternative to a lettuce-based side.
Individual servings
Next up, the pizzas. They arrived nicely paced just a few minutes after the empty salad plates were cleared away. We decided to go with 10-inch independent pies. For those willing to share, 12- and 16-inch pizzas also are available.
The menu lists nearly two dozen "house specials" ranging from Po Boy pizza (shrimp, chicken or crawfish with smoked Cajun sausage, red onion and green pepper) to Greek, Mediterranean and primavera versions. It was no surprise, though, that my carnivorous hubby went straight for the 10-inch Slaughterhouse Five ($10.45), a Kurt Vonnegut tribute with pepperoni, sausage, ham, bacon and Italian beef.
Yeah, it's a protein overload, but the meats were tasty, especially the smoky bacon, large rounds of thin-sliced ham and Italian beef bits. Pete decided that in the future he would replace the mild sausage with its spicier chorizo cousin, which was part of my Make Your Own creation.
I chose from among Jockamo's regular and specialty toppings to concoct a 10-inch pizza with pepperoni, chorizo, red and yellow bell peppers and fresh garlic ($11). The chorizo blends heat with a shot of cinnamon for a spicy-sweet flavor that teamed well with the fresh garlic and pepperoni slices. The bell peppers are finely diced for a colorful shot of veggie power.
The thin crusts -- seasoned with basil and garlic -- crisp up nicely on the edges. The rich, thick house-made tomato-based sauce topped both of our pies. Other sauces are offered -- pesto, barbecue, Alfredo, black bean, creamy Parmesan, hummus -- but I'll have a hard time tearing myself away from this lycopene-packed goodness on future orders.
Local vendors
We didn't make it to dessert -- in fact, we each boxed up half of our pizzas -- but carrot cake, a pineapple upside-down cupcake and a bomba (frozen chocolate and vanilla gelato) are available. So are beer and wine, including specialty brews from Indianapolis-area breweries. In fact, Jockamo is big on using local vendors, bringing in barbecue sauce from G.T. South's and smoked Cajun sausage from Claus' German Sausage & Meats.
That neighborly attitude attracts an already loyal group of regulars. We noticed diners waving to each other from nearby tables and greeting newly arriving friends. If all that camaraderie is any indication, Jockamo needn't worry about any kitchen nightmares -- and neither will Eastsiders.
By Julie Cope Saetre / INtake correspondent
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