Good pub grub

The the reuben boxty at Mo's Irish Pub (Credit: Frank Espich)

With a name like Mo's Irish Pub, you would expect a modus operandi based on the maxim: "In heaven there is no beer. That is why we drink it here." A Web site that displays a second-by-second countdown to St. Patrick's Day isn't a shocker either.

And, of course, any Irish pub worth its spuds is going to offer traditional fare like shepherds pie, corned beef, boxty (potato pancakes) and fish and chips.

But a fresh, made in-house veggie burger? And garlic cheese fries?

Those are just a couple of the surprises we found  on the menu at Mo's in  Hamilton Town Center in Noblesville.

Mo's Irish Pub is restauranteur Johnny Vassallo's second Central Indiana venture. Vassallo, aka Johnny V, also founded Mo's A Place for Steaks, and one of his three steakhouses has operated in Downtown Indianapolis for six years. The other two are in Vassallo's home base in Milwaukee and in Wauwatosa, Wis.

Mo, by the way, is short for Maureen, Vassallo's mother.

The food: The entrees included a couple of odd cultural combinations -- a cheeseburger shalaylee of ground beef and American cheese stuffed inside a crispy wrap ($7.99) and a reuben quesadilla with corned beef, sauerkraut and swiss cheese ($8.99). We shared the spinach tapenade ($4.99). The warm, creamy mixture of spinach, artichoke, roasted garlic, onion, Parmesan cheese and cayenne pepper was served with toasted sourdough crisps.

My dining partner has searched citywide for a made-from-scratch veggie burger, and only ordered this one after she had clarified with our server that this was not a frozen Gardenburger. The fresh blend of black beans, brown rice, oats, onions and other vegetables, smothered with sauteed mushrooms and served on a toasted kaiser roll ($7.99) was far superior to the frozen versions -- crispy on the outside, but with that crumbly consistency on the inside, making it necessary to eat with a fork.

I went for an Irish original -- Mo's reuben boxty ($12.99), a hefty seasoned potato pancake that resembled a burrito in size. It was stuffed with slow-cooked corned beef, sauerkraut and thousand island dressing, then smothered with a thick cheese sauce. When I ordered the boxty, I asked the waitress what came with it. "Nothing," she said. "This is all you'll want." She was right.

We finished the meal, sharing Mo's humongous chocolate chip cookie ($6.99), warm from the oven, topped with vanilla ice scream and served with hot and gooey chocolate sauce.

We didn't sample the brew, but Mo's selection includes 14 draught beers -- Guinness is featured -- served by the American or Imperial pint. You can also purchase mixed pints like Guinness and Smithwicks or Guinness and Blue Moon.

The atmosphere: Unlike the posh, old-boys-club setting of Mo's steakhouse Downtown, the pub is airy, with high ceiling beams and big windows inviting lots of natural lighting. There is also outdoor dining.

The service: Quick, friendly and efficient.

The cost: $44.92 for two.