Dining review: Plum's Upper Room

The stuffed boneless pork chop ($26) from Turner Farms was juicy and nearly two inches thick. It was accompanied by sides of potatoes and asparagus. (Credit: Michelle Pemberton)

If you're looking for a restaurant with speedy service and a quick exit, Plum's Upper Room is not for you.

The second-story eatery, which overlooks Zionsville's bricked Main Street, is for diners willing to sacrifice swiftness for made-from-scratch meals with no preservatives or microwave assistance.

"We practice slow cooking, and people have to understand there's a time element to all of that," said owner Jayne Nolting, who opened her first restaurant in Zionsville 22 years ago.

Plum's people tend to be people who know they are in for the evening. It's not uncommon for Plum's regulars to start at the sofa-filled bar area with drinks, go to their tables for dinner, then return to the bar for dessert.

They don't "turn tables," as they say in the business, at Plum's.

"You have a reservation ..... you come in and get a table ..... and it's yours for the rest of the night," said Nolting. "We want people to dine and not just eat."

The food: Because Plum's is big on local fare, we started with a board full of artisan cheeses ($13) from Traders Point Creamery about 10 minutes southwest of the restaurant. The highlight was Plum's own Boursin-style cheese, served wrapped in a leaf to be spread over crusty, fresh-baked bread and toast.

Plum's has an intentionally short but interesting entree list that includes eight signature dishes -- stuffed scallops, lump crabmeat crepes, crepe torta, bone-in strip steak, duck breast, tuna steak, boneless pork chop and the omelet of the day. And then there are the specials scribbled on a chalkboard in the main dining area to complement the table menu.

I selected the boneless pork chop ($26) from Turner Farms, while my dining partner chose the flavorful smoked salmon pasta ($17) from the chalkboard.

My moist chop, nearly two inches thick, arrived on a bed of rich mashed potatoes with a side of grilled asparagus. The bowtie-pasta was sprinkled with capers and Parmesan and covered with the house-made cheese.

The only problem of the evening came with the dessert order of carrot ginger cake ($5) and lemon pound cake ($5). Lukewarm coffee arrived ahead of our dessert choices. We waited several minutes for a fresh pot, while nibbling at our wonderful treats.

The atmosphere: The restaurant has a cool, warehouse vibe, from its iron stairway to exposed brick walls. A conversation area with big sofas and leather chairs provides seating near the bar. Ask for one of three window tables when making reservations.

The service: Service was friendly and satisfactory, but deteriorated as business increased.

The cost: $87.76 for two