Dining review: Athens on 86th

Gyro piato from Athens on 86th (Credit: Michelle Pemberton)

Like many culinary treasures along 86th Street, Athens on 86th is tucked away in a strip mall. And while the exterior doesn't offer much for the eye, the interior transports diners far away from suburban commerce.

Athens on 86th is true to its name, offering authentic cuisine from Greece.

The food: Choices abound -- chicken, shrimp or beef kabobs; traditional specialties such as gyro psiti (seasoned gyro meat served with tomatoes, red onion and tzatziki sauce); dolmades (grape leaves stuffed with a blend of ground beef, rice and herbs); or thalassina (seafood, including Mediterranean sea bass). Several vegetarian dishes are also included, along with a child's menu.

My friend and I started with spanakopita ($6.99). The appetizer, a tasty blend of sauteed spinach, sprinkled with feta cheese and wrapped in flaky phyllo dough, was plenty for two.

For her entree, my dining partner chose the moussaka, a "lasagna-like" dish that included layers of eggplant, potatoes and ground beef coated in a delicious bechamel cream sauce ($10.99). I ordered the lahanodolmades and stuffed myself with a heaping serving of cabbage with ground beef and rice in a light tomato sauce ($10.69). All entrees are served with a small Greek salad, green beans and choice of rice pilaf or roasted Greek potatoes, and light, buttery bread. The total presentation is generous.

The atmosphere: If you can't go to Greece, Athens on 86th will bring Greece -- at least, the postcard version -- to you. The interior plaster walls are painted with Mediterranean scenes, and Grecian columns add ambiance to the intimate restaurant. Greek music provides a background for white-linen dining.

The service: Our server offered suggestions when we were stumped, and made frequent trips to refill our water and iced-tea glasses and to inquire if we needed anything else.

The price: $33.96, plus tip, for a party of two.