Dinner at the deli

Chicken and Waffles the The Keystone Deli. (Credit: Danese Kenon / Metromix)

Keystone Deli, which sits squarely under the name “Deli” in the slightly depressed strip mall at 53rd and Keystone, looks like the perfect location for “Ghost World’s” Enid and Becky to sit and drink coffee and people-watch. This joint is just small enough, just kitschy enough and just mired in history enough to entertain both old folks and pissy, sardonic teens. Most locals love Keystone — actually, more diner than deli —for its hangover-curing brunches. After all, owner Debbie McLaughlin has closed precisely at 2 p.m. for the past 20 years. Since early April, the restaurant has been open until 8 p.m.; we ventured in around 7 for some evening grubbing.

The Deli is darkly lit, casting a ’70s feel over it. Forget Enid and Becky; Mary and Rhoda are eating salads here and hashing out their diet plans. And thinking about how much they’d like the strawberry pie.

My friend’s fried chicken was deliciously greasy, and down-home when combined with the waffles ($7.99). The fried cabbage ($1.30), which was part ham, too, was tasty, and we both noshed hard on the fried macaroni and cheese squares ($3.50), which came fresh from the fryer. The egg salad sandwich ($4.25) was serviceable — exactly what a proper egg salad sandwich should be.

Mid-meal, McLaughlin came out to greet us — you get the feeling she does this, anyway, when she has a chance, but during her dinner she has extra time. The secret isn’t out yet that you can eat well and for pretty cheap at her restaurant.