A forward look for Asian fare

Mixed veggies with tofu from Chinese restaurant Naisa Cafe (Credit: Michelle Pemberton / Metromix)

Let us begin by asking you nicely to patronize Naisa, a new pan-Asian restaurant in Fountain Square. Our asking is not without selfish motives; you see, we want to eat here again and again. And again.

Naisa (Asian spelled backwards), just one block north of the Murphy Art Center, is set in one of those low-slung, blocky spots that was a shop ages ago. Inside, your eyes move from the polished concrete floor to the potted greenery to the Herron student artwork — Naisa is the dorm room of your very clean best friend. And you are a little jealous of Naisa because she is so effortlessly chic and well groomed.

That simplicity carries over to the lunch menu. For appetizers, my friend ordered the seafood cheese wonton ($4.25 for six; basically a crab Rangoon), and I had the pan-fried veggie dumpling ($4.95 for six), which were minced veggies wrapped in homemade spinach dough.

We followed that with the lunch specials, accompanied by a fried appetizer, soup or rice. My friend’s honey sesame chicken ($7.25) featured thick and gooey sauce over tender chicken pieces.

My vegetarian mixed veggies ($6.95, with added tofu for $2) was light and fresh. The tofu was nearly transcendental: It had been pressed before being lightly fried, so it had crunch and a little bit of chew. This tofu is a rare and delightful find.

As were the cinnamon sugar puffs ($4.95 for eight), which are light, yeast like doughnuts with honey ginger dipping sauce. The first bite made my heart flutter; with the second, we were in love. Ten minutes earlier, we frowned at an elderly woman patron who audibly licked her fingers; after eating the first puff, we found ourselves doing the same.