Bar Exam: Mesh on Mass

This fish taco is $2. No joke. (Credit: Michelle Pemberton / Metromix)

Mesh, 725 Massachusetts Ave., (317) 955-9600 or www.meshonmass.com.

What it is: The Cunningham Restaurant Group has expanded its large list of locations to include the Downtown dining scene. Mesh on Mass brings a new vibe to the space once occupied by Scholar’s Inn, while also incorporating many familiar elements from its sister restaurant, Stone Creek Dining Co. “Mesh is a great fit for where we are, what we’ve done, combining the tradition of Stone Creek with a more contemporary twist on the food,” said general manager Roddy Kirschenman.

Decor: Homey, yet polished. The earth tone colors create a cozy atmosphere, while the massive granite bar and low lighting add the appropriate smattering of sexiness.
 
Menu: The menu centers around American comfort food with a twist. An instant appetizer favorite was Chicken Lollipops served with Pineapple Ponzu and Tempura Scallions ($10). My dining partner enjoyed her BLT ($10), and I could have done without my Po’ Boy ($11), but the side of Sweet Potato Chips is a keeper.

Signature drink: Cherry Bot — cherry vodka, cranberry, mint ($8).

Playlist: Their Muzak is set on “Backpages,” a soft-core alternative channel.

Grade: B+. The environment and service were on the spot, but the food could use that extra touch I know Layton Roberts (formerly of 14 West) has up his chef’s coat sleeve.

X-Factor: In the kitchen, chef Roberts demands that all sauce ladles face the same direction — seriously.

Happiest hours: $2 bar menu from 3 to 6 p.m. daily and “late night” featuring snacks, sliders, tacos and grilled flatbread.